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In this Issue

Summer will be here before you know it, so if you have been weighing your Alaska options it's time to narrow it down and settle on just one of the many possibilities. Try to get your plans finalized and reservations confirmed in the next few weeks.

Alaska News:
Spring has definitely hit Alaska in the last two weeks. Temps here in Anchorage have been hitting the low to mid 50s for the last week. The warm temperatures and clear skies combined with ever lengthening days means that snow is getting pretty scarce in the city. Of course there's still plenty of the white stuff up in the mountains and will be for some time. It was a spotty snow season this year but for the most part there was good snow for the Iditarod and I managed to get in a lot of skiing though nothing like last winter.

Alaska Backcountry Skills: Routefinding Tips & Techniques - Part II
Last time I talked about navigation and map reading skills with a special emphasis on the unique aspects of Alaskan maps. This month I want to expand on that and offer some detailed tips and tricks that can help you chart a course through the Alaskan wilderness.

As you stand at the head of a long valley your general navigation is clear - go down the valley and up over the pass at the end of it. But how do you find the best route that will avoid as many obstacles as possible?

This is where routefinding skills come into play. First of all there is no better teacher than experience. So if you want to become proficient at navigation and routefinding then get out there in the mountains and practice. Even when you go on a trail hike, get used to checking your map and being able to quickly and easily identify your location and route.

But there are some techniques and information that can help you along as you build your own storehouse of field experience and knowledge.

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A Bird's Eye View

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Scoping out a glacier crossing
from a ridge top.

   

A lot of the backcountry trips I do in the summer are remote fly-in treks. There's no better way to scout a route than to fly over it in a single engine plane. This might seem almost like cheating but in fact if you aren't careful, your fly over will actually benefit you very little. Check over the route in detail before you hop in the plane. The more familiar you are with the overall route the easier it will be to get your bearings once in the air. But don't try to commit the whole flight to memory. There is just so much to see that you will find it difficult to absorb it all. You may be scratching your head as you try to recall the idea you had for a traverse while flying over it four days earlier.

So as you fly over the route concentrate only on those areas where you have the most questions. For example, the contours on the map may show a steep ascent up a narrow ridgeline which looks fairly doable on the map. But when you fly over it you might find that the crest which looked so smooth on your hundred foot contour map, is a jagged saw-tooth edge that would require technical climbing. That's the sort of thing you can learn on a fly over that can save you a full day detour later.

Bushwhacking

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Stream banks in the lower elevations
can be a bit brushy

   

One obstacle that everyone wants to avoid is heavy brush. A mile of thick alder could take four hours or more to traverse. Again, scope out the brush from above, and not just from a plane but anytime you have elevation on your trip. Let's say you top out on a pass and are getting ready to cut across the next valley. Take your time to plot a route that will avoid the worst of the brush if there is any. This is an area where experience helps.

Most folks know that the green areas on a map signify vegetation. But on Alaska maps it doesn't always mean a lot. I have seen areas that looked like heavy brush on the map that turned out to be no big deal. Other areas may show no green at all and turn out to be the bushwhack from hell.

And it all looks good from the inside of a Super Cub at 800 feet and 150 miles an hour. Likewise the brush down in the valley might not look so bad from high on a ridge. You need to learn how to "read" brush from a distance. Different types of brush have very different color and texture. Look at the vegetation down in the valley then look around you at the brush close at hand. In this way you can tell a lot about the type and density of brush that is far away and plan accordingly.

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Many times even a brushy valley will have islands of clear ground. If you can string together these areas you can greatly reduce the bushwhacking needed. But to do this requires careful attention to creating a mental map based on landmarks. That's where it gets tricky. I have successfully used clumps of vegetation to serve as a landmark but it needs to be distinctive. When you're down in the thick of it everything looks the same if you haven't really burned-in the route.

Up, Down and Across: Valleys

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Boulder fields require patience
and carefull footing.

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Routes in the Alaskan backcountry are all about drainages - up one and down another. The drainages become the guiding structures of your route. So you need to learn about how valleys work and how to navigate up, down and across them.

Every valley is a bit different but there are a few generalizations. The floors of valleys are tempting as they are the flattest terrain around but they can also be the brushiest. Heading up the side of a valley can keep you above the brush. But what appears on the map to be an easy traverse can turn out to be a constant struggle over boulder fields and steep gullies. Remember, those 100 foot contour intervals may not show any indication at all of an 80 feet deep ravine with sides too steep to negotiate.

Often it's a matter of finding the balance: high enough to stay above the brush but low enough to avoid the worst of the rocks.

The mountains of the Chugach tend to be a crumbly lot. They like to fall apart and send rocks and boulders down into passes and gullies. If the approach up a pass is especially narrow then chances are good that there will be boulder fields there.

Glacial moraine is another one of those things that don't tell the full story on a map. Moraine is the rocky debris left by the action of a glacier bulldozing it's way down a valley. The ice may be long gone but moraine is forever. It may be indicated on your map but if you've never crossed moraine before you may be mislead by the map which may look like easy going. Moraine usually involves a lot of up and down.. and up and down, over loose rock. So if the map indicates moraine you might want to route around the edge of it if possible. Or sometimes you can stay up on the ridge and drop down to the valley beyond the moraine fields.

These are just a few tips on routefinding in the mountains of Alaska. With some experience and careful observation you can leave it to others to come back with horrific tales of 10 hour bushwhacks through eight foot high alder thickets.

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Featured Trips: Our best treks.
People often ask which are my favorite treks. It's a bit like being asked to pick your favorite child. You may have a special feeling for one but you love them all.

The following three always seem to percolate to the top of my list for different reasons. Just don't ask me to pick one of the three as the best.

Two of the selections, Seven Passes and Horsefeld are the two longest routes in our regular roster and I have to admit a preference for a slightly longer trek. It gives you a bit more time to let go of your regular patterns and connect with the wilderness.

Route
Duration/
Difficulty
What makes it great
>
8 days
Strenuous backpack
Some difficult terrain
Just the right amount of challenge

» class="bodystyleLink">see trip details
For sheer variety of terrain this one is tough to beat. Two glacier crossings. Several wonderful alpine lakes, good wildlife spotting.. and did I mention the stunning variety of terrain? Critters include bear and the elusive wolverine.
         
8 days
Strenuous backpack
Not quite as strenuous as the Seven Pass trip

» see trip details

 
See a different side of the park. Starts in tundra and heads for the high country. The last two days will have your eyes popping with the views of Bona, Sulzor and other close by peaks. One of the few areas to spot caribou in addition to Dahl sheep and bear.
  .      
6 days
Moderate backpack
Not easy but the less strenuous than the other two.

» see trip details

Dramatic skyline views of the incomparable University range. Some nice ridge walks and close up views of Pyramid Peak. Have fun kicking around the ruins of an old mining community on Rex Creek.
         
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Well that's it for this edition. Drop me a line if you have any questions.

Greg Fensterman

greg@trekalaska.com    -     www.TrekAlaska.com


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