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Owner Greg Fensterman,
author of Hiking Alaska’s
Wrangell-St. Elias National
Park
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Past Trip Reports

Pyramid Peak – 2010

Sunday, January 9th, 2011
Heading up Canyon Creek

Heading up Canyon Creek

We did the Pyramid Peak route several times last summer. One of those trips was a group of seven  which is a bigger group than we usually do but it worked out well in this case. It was an international trip with a couple of Irish lads (Ian and Nial) as well as a young lady, Annie, from Switzerland. Serge and Andrea were a couple from Canada which left Judy and Ann as our token Americans in the group.

It was a diverse group which helped to keep things lively and interesting.

The drop-off airstrip on this trek is very small and very remote, so we had to fly in one at a time in a Super Cub. It’s a dramatic flight in and it was funny to watch each person get out of the plane and the first words out of their mouth was a variation on “that was amazing.” So the flight in definitely got five stars.

Because it took so long to get the group re-assembled on Canyon Creek, the first day was a pretty short and easy one. We hiked a few miles upstream along the creek and then made our crossing of Canyon Creek so we wouldn’t have to start our next day with a cold crossing.

Up the Ridge

Up the Ridge

We had a great campsite right near the water. At dinner time a rather cheeky ground squirrel came round to see if he could scrounge some food. He was totally unafraid of us and in fact would just not be scared off. He did manage to score a piece of pasta and gave our fettuccine alfredo a two paws up review.

A Well Deserved Break

A Well Deserved Break

Day two was a bit more strenuous and featured a big slog up the first ridge of the trip. But it was well worth the hump as we arrived on top to be greeted by clear skies and awesome views all around, especially of the University range.

There is a lot of flexibility in how we structure this route and generally we mix up the longer and shorter days. We got to one spot were we have camped before but it was pretty early in the day so I presented an option that I had always wanted to try.

There is a great spot to camp up on the ridge but the downside is that there is no water, so the only we to camp there is to haul water up the hill. Well Serge and the Milne brothers came to the rescue and volunteered to hump water. It was a great spot to camp for sure with nice views.

Summit Handstands!

Summit Handstands!

The hike up the ridge to Andrus is always a highlight though some find it a little more exciting than they would like. It’s a sharp edge ridge-line that is pretty exhilarating. Ian and Nial had to celebrate our arrival at the top with their traditional summit handstand. The view from the shoulder of Andrus is one of the best of the trek and it’s always a treat when the skies are clear.

One of the big features of the last half of the route is the crossing and re-crossing and more re-crossings of Rex Creek. We had a big group so we split into two teams of four each for the stream crossings: team Mankini and team Magic Spoon. And each team had their own inspirational chant to help fortify and encourage us before venturing into the cold water. It really helped make an otherwise tedious number of crossings a lot easier and even fun.

One of the highlights for me was the last morning when the group presented a thank you gift including a made-in-the-field card. Thanks again guys.

So it was a great trek with a great bunch of people.

Can’t wait to see who shows up this summer!

Annie Enjoying the Spectacular Views on the Way Down.

Annie Enjoying the Spectacular Views on the Way Down.

2010 Treks in Review: Lake Clark

Thursday, December 16th, 2010

The snow is really piling up out here in the Wrangells these days. So to warm things up a bit it’s time for a winter reflection on some treks from this past summer.

The fall colors were spectacular.

The fall colors were spectacular.

I’m going to start with the last trip of our season – the Lake Clark, Turquoise Lake High Country Trek. There is nothing more fun than to take clients on an exploratory trip on a route I’ve never been on before. I get to remember what it’s like to be on a route where you don’t really know what lays ahead. Is that stream going to be cross-able? How steep is that pass? Will we be able to find a place to camp along the shore of that lake?

It keeps things interesting.

Part of the reason that we did the Lake Clark trip is that Rick and Janette had already done 3 different treks with me in Wrangell-St. Elias and as much as they love that area they were curious about Lake Clark. They had read Dick Preneckie’s book about his experience living on Twin Lakes and wanted to see his cabin as well has have a back-country adventure.

I had only been to Lake Clark once and that was years ago so I had to pull out the maps and scan for route ideas that would finish near Dick’s cabin on Twin Lakes. I found would looked like a workable high country route that started on Lake Telaquana. There were several spots along the way that I wasn’t sure what to expect but figured we would work it out as we went.

We hop on a commuter plane at Merrill Feild for the flight to Port Alsworth. Wow, what a flight coming in over the Tordrillo Mountains. What a rugged and totally forbidding terrain. I was glad we wouldn’t be trekking through that mess.

In PA we got into a couple of Cessna 206s on float which deposited us on the shore of Lake Telaquana. Fortunately we got some last minute beta about the hike up from the lake. What looked like a quick and easy jaunt up the ridge to some nice lakes proved to take a bit longer and involved some bushwhacking.

The top of the ridge is very indistinctly rolling country and in the thick fog we almost walked right by our half mile long lake.

We wanted adventure and that’s what we got.

One of the highlights was fishing at Turquoise Lake where we layed over for an extra night. We had fresh grayling for dinner both nights.

One of our high ridge camps - amazing!

One of our high ridge camps - amazing!

One of my favorite campsites was this high camp near some ragged peaks. The hike out the next day started in bitter cold rain but by the afternoon turned sunny. A friendly red fox trotted along near us for part of the hike up the next ridge.

Our camps alternated between high ridge camps and lake-side spots. Besides the fish, one of the nice things about the lower camps was the chance to have an evening fire. We always dug a pit in the sand for it and then buried it in the morning to leave no trace of our fires.

We saw a brown bear up really close one day and also some Dall sheep so it was pretty good for critter spotting.

Everyone was looking forward to seeing Dick’s cabin at twin and that did not disappoint. There was a park volunteer who stays at a nearby cabin. He was a friend of Dick’s so we got a guided tour and the inside scoop on ole Dick. The cabin is quite the work of craftsmanship. I do think however, that the gravel floor was probably a tad cold in the winter. Heck it was probably cold in the summer.

All in all it was a great adventure with lots of surprises but none that we couldn’t handle. In fact I liked it so much that I have put the trip on the regular roster for summer 2011.

Dick's cabin on Twin Lakes

Dick's cabin on Twin Lakes

A friendly trail companion

A friendly trail companion

Sometimes rugged, always breath-taking

Sometimes rugged, always breath-taking

Alaskan Winter Day Hike

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

scott_eklutna_ridgeOkay it was nothing grand but we just had to take the morning off and get up on some mountains. One of the great things about Alaska is that even in the Anchorage (or in my case Eagle River) area, you are never more than minutes away from trailheads and great hiking opportunities.

Backcountry guide Scott and I took off after breakfast to the Peter’s Creek trailhead which is about a 20 minute drive north of Eagle River. One of the things I like about this one is that the trail doesn’t mess around but pretty much just goes up pretty steeply from the get go, so it’s a good workout. We hadn’t had any fresh snow for a while so the trail was pretty well packed down. I was happy to have some traction aids on my boots for part of it.

Once up on the plateau the trail peters out pretty much. The winds up there fill in any boot tracks about as fast as you can make them. No worries though as there is no need for a trail at that point – it’s all wide open tundra up there. It wasn’t too windy when we got there however and the temps were quite mild at around 18 degrees F.

We hiked down the ridge then up and over a high point where we snapped a few pics. Then it was back down into the valley. We tried to do some glissading on the way down but for the most part the snow was just too soft, so we had to hoof it.

Skolai to Wolverine – 2009 Trip Report

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

Here’s an excerpt from our last newsletter – a report on a great backpacking trek with a great crew. I had a wonderful time on a trek from Skolai Pass to Wolverine Mountain in late July. It was a great crew headed up by Rob Shurmer who had three of his former students in tow – Harry, James and Andrew.

P1010271We dropped into Skolai Pass for the start of our trek on a sunny day and headed east towards the Russell glacier. We had to do a bit of scouting around to find a good campsite but came up with a nice one overlooking the glacier. A short hike after setting up camp took got us up close and personal with this impressive glacier.

Next day it was hiking up to Chitistone Pass by way of the ‘back door’ past some dramatic hanging glaciers. We had to do a bit of jumping, leaping and rock hopping to avoid some stream crossings but I seem to recall that we were able to keep our boots dry.

The guys in the group were big Lord of the Rings fans and as we hiked through a section of grassy knobs we dubbed it the Barrow Downs. The fog drifting in and out of the hummocks really added to the effect. However we completed the passage without running into any barrow wights.

The Scree Slopes

The Scree Slopes

The highlight of that day was the traverse across the infamous scree slopes. The slopes can be a bit intimidating at times. But we managed to stay on the high route and avoid the more hazardous lower path. Our reward was topping out on the ridge where we were treated to a parting of the fog to reveal some truly stunning views of the Chitistone river far below.

Here’s a short video from the ridge top posted on our Facebook page. As you can hear the wind was whipping around pretty hard.

That day turned out to be a long one as we pushed on farther than usual and found an amazing place to camp at the head of Hasen Creek. We saw lots of Dahl sheep there too. Down the creek, up and over a saddle on another ridge, down the other side, over the morraine… and then to a small pool created by rockslide that blocked a stream’s exit. Some of the guys were ready for a break and stripped down and jumped in to cool off.

Get the Flash Player to see the wordTube Media Player.

One of my favorite camps was at Grotto Creek where we had some really sweet late afternoon light – great for taking some photos of Wolverine Mountain. And the final camp near the airstrip is always a great end to the trip. The views are amazing as you stand at the top of rocky cliffs… right next to the dragon eggs. All in all it was a wonderful Alaskan backpacking adventure with delightful companions.

There was never a dull moment with this group, especially if you were a card player and have a good knowledge of history for trivia games.

Skolai Pass to Wolverine – Shurmer Party

Tuesday, December 29th, 2009
Russell Glacier

Russell Glacier

Sometimes I have to take a break from winter in Alaska and reflect on some of the great backpacking trips we did last summer.

I had a wonderful time on a trek from Skolai Pass to Wolverine Mountain in late July. It was a great crew headed up by Rob Shurmer who had three of his former students in tow -  Harry, James and Andrew.

We dropped into Skolai Pass for the start of our trek on a sunny day and headed east towards the Russell glacier. We had to do a bit of scouting around to find a good campsite but came up with a nice one overlooking the glacier. A short hike after setting up camp took got us up close and personal with this impressive glacier.

Guide Scott gives some map reading assistance

Guide Scott gives some map reading assistance

Next day it was up to Chitistone Pass by way of the back door past some dramatic hanging glaciers. We had to do a bit of jumping, leaping and rock hopping to avoid some stream crossings but I seem to recall that we were able to keep our boots dry.

The guys in the group were big Lord of the Rings fans and as we hiked through a section of grassy knobs I dubbed it the Barrow Downs. The fog drifting in and out of the hummocks really added to the effect. However we completed the passage without running into any barrow wights.

The highlight of that day was the traverse across the infamous scree slopes. But we managed to stay on the high route and avoid the more hazardous lower path. Our reward was topping out on the ridge where we were treated to a parting of the fog to reveal some truly stunning views of the Chitistone river far below. That day turned out to be a long one as we pushed on farther than usual and found an amazing place to camp at the head of Hasen Creek. We saw lots of Dahl sheep  there too.

Down the creek, up and over a saddle on another ridge, down the other side, over the morraine… and then to a small pool created by rockslide that blocked a stream’s exit. Some of the guys were ready for a break and stripped down and jumped in to cool off.

One of my favorite camps was at Grotto Creek where we had some really sweet late afternoon light – great for taking some photos of Wolverine Mountain.

And the final camp near the airstrip is always a great end to the trip. The views are amazing as you stand at the top of rocky cliffs… right next to the dragon eggs.

All in all it was a wonderful adventure with delightful companions. There was never a dull moment with this  group, especially if you were a card player and have a good knowledge of history.

Get the Flash Player to see the wordTube Media Player.