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Owner Greg Fensterman,
author of Hiking Alaska’s
Wrangell-St. Elias National
Park
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Past Trip Planning

2010 Treks in Review: Lake Clark

Thursday, December 16th, 2010

The snow is really piling up out here in the Wrangells these days. So to warm things up a bit it’s time for a winter reflection on some treks from this past summer.

The fall colors were spectacular.

The fall colors were spectacular.

I’m going to start with the last trip of our season – the Lake Clark, Turquoise Lake High Country Trek. There is nothing more fun than to take clients on an exploratory trip on a route I’ve never been on before. I get to remember what it’s like to be on a route where you don’t really know what lays ahead. Is that stream going to be cross-able? How steep is that pass? Will we be able to find a place to camp along the shore of that lake?

It keeps things interesting.

Part of the reason that we did the Lake Clark trip is that Rick and Janette had already done 3 different treks with me in Wrangell-St. Elias and as much as they love that area they were curious about Lake Clark. They had read Dick Preneckie’s book about his experience living on Twin Lakes and wanted to see his cabin as well has have a back-country adventure.

I had only been to Lake Clark once and that was years ago so I had to pull out the maps and scan for route ideas that would finish near Dick’s cabin on Twin Lakes. I found would looked like a workable high country route that started on Lake Telaquana. There were several spots along the way that I wasn’t sure what to expect but figured we would work it out as we went.

We hop on a commuter plane at Merrill Feild for the flight to Port Alsworth. Wow, what a flight coming in over the Tordrillo Mountains. What a rugged and totally forbidding terrain. I was glad we wouldn’t be trekking through that mess.

In PA we got into a couple of Cessna 206s on float which deposited us on the shore of Lake Telaquana. Fortunately we got some last minute beta about the hike up from the lake. What looked like a quick and easy jaunt up the ridge to some nice lakes proved to take a bit longer and involved some bushwhacking.

The top of the ridge is very indistinctly rolling country and in the thick fog we almost walked right by our half mile long lake.

We wanted adventure and that’s what we got.

One of the highlights was fishing at Turquoise Lake where we layed over for an extra night. We had fresh grayling for dinner both nights.

One of our high ridge camps - amazing!

One of our high ridge camps - amazing!

One of my favorite campsites was this high camp near some ragged peaks. The hike out the next day started in bitter cold rain but by the afternoon turned sunny. A friendly red fox trotted along near us for part of the hike up the next ridge.

Our camps alternated between high ridge camps and lake-side spots. Besides the fish, one of the nice things about the lower camps was the chance to have an evening fire. We always dug a pit in the sand for it and then buried it in the morning to leave no trace of our fires.

We saw a brown bear up really close one day and also some Dall sheep so it was pretty good for critter spotting.

Everyone was looking forward to seeing Dick’s cabin at twin and that did not disappoint. There was a park volunteer who stays at a nearby cabin. He was a friend of Dick’s so we got a guided tour and the inside scoop on ole Dick. The cabin is quite the work of craftsmanship. I do think however, that the gravel floor was probably a tad cold in the winter. Heck it was probably cold in the summer.

All in all it was a great adventure with lots of surprises but none that we couldn’t handle. In fact I liked it so much that I have put the trip on the regular roster for summer 2011.

Dick's cabin on Twin Lakes

Dick's cabin on Twin Lakes

A friendly trail companion

A friendly trail companion

Sometimes rugged, always breath-taking

Sometimes rugged, always breath-taking

Nutzotin Highlands – A Great Early Season Route

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010


Pyramid Peak trek

Amazing views from the ridge leading into Solo Lake in the Nutzotin Highlands.

Summer’s Coming!

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Just a quick update on trips scheduled for this summer.

The end of July is getting very busy and many trips are already sold out. There are Seven Pass, Pyramid Peak and Skyscraper treks that are all completely full. There are some space left on a late July Skolai Pass trek but otherwise that time slot is all but closed.

There are still trips at other times during the summer with spaces remaining however. Take a look at the calendar page to check availability. But this is the time of year where things can change quickly however, and a trek with 2-3 open spots can be sold out a week later. The end of March and early April is usually a very busy time for bookings.

If you have a group of friends and are wanting to schedule a private trip then you should definitely call us soon so we can work your group into the schedule.

If you’re planning a June trip you should make your plans very soon.

Featured Trip – Nutzotin Highlands (aka, Horsfeld Highlands)

It’s been a while since I spotlighted this route and it deserves a special mention.

Trek Alaska

Lovely walk on a ridgetop

This is a terrific route for an early season trek. A lot of folks don’t realize how late summer arrives here in Alaska and especially in the mountains. In the backcountry of Wrangell-St. Elias for example we don’t usually start doing deep backcountry routes till the first of July when the snow is melting out of the passes. There may still be a bit of snow in the high passes but it’s not a problem.

But I often get folks wanting to do a trip in June and the choices are more limited then. But the Nutzotin route is perfect for that time of year. It’s in the northern region of the park so you might assume that it gets more snow and melts out later but it’s just the opposite – the routes there are clear before most others in the southern part of the park.

This is also a great choice for someone who wants an extended backcountry adventure but within the moderate range of difficulty. We spend 8 days on our hike from Horsfeld to Solo Creek but we don’t carry packs every day. We usually layover once or twice along the way so that we can do some local exploring with lighter loads.

Moose, bear, Dall sheep and caribou have all been spotted on the route so it’s a good one for wildlife. I even spotted a wolf along the way once, just before he scooted over the ridge and out of sight.

The trek covers a nice variety of terrain and ranges from wide open tundra to some sweet ridge walks. My favorite is the walk down the last ridge just before solo creek. We get some amazing views of Mt. Sulzor, Bona and their ice and snow capped neighbors. And the last time I was up there in late June that ridge was covered in buttercups in bloom.

The route begins in the tundra near Beaver Creek and then we head up into the higher country. There is a spot around day two that I am thinking of staying an extra day this time to allow for a bit of exploring.

We travel up and over a couple of ridges along the way so we will get our exercise, but none are super steep. Always great views waiting on top too. There is an interesting canyon that we cross about midway that is a neat little spot and a great lunch stop.

So if you’re looking for an early season trek that’s adventurous but not extreme and has good wildlife potential then this is definitely the one.

We are offering this trip just once this summer – June 27 to July 4, so if you’re interested you should call soon. The fourth is always sold out at the hotel in McCarthy.

Pyramid Peak trek

Near Wolverine Mt. on the Skolai to Wolverine route.

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Trek Comparison Matrix

Easier to
Moderate
Moderate to

Strenuous

Strenuous
Extremely

Challenging

Steamboat Hills

Skolai Pass

Donoho Glacier Trek

Iceberg Lake

Hidden Creek

Iceberg Lake

Skolai to Wolverine

Nutzotin Highlands

Seven Pass

Pyramid Peak

Wrangell/Skyscraper

For more on any of these trips click on the links to see the detail page or give us a call. 907.350.3710

Well that’s it for now… happy trails!

Greg Fensterman

Planning Your Alaskan Adventure

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

A few months ago I talked a bit about selecting the best trek for you. This month I want to go into more detail not just about selecting a trek but tips for the entire Alaska trip planning process.

1. Define what sort of adventure you want.

Do you want to do day hikes from a comfortable lodge or spend 8 days hiking through rugged wilderness? How long do you want to be in the backcountry? How hard do you want to work? Are there special features that you want to include in your adventure? The better you are able to define what you want the easier it will be to sort through the many offerings of numerous Alaska adventure providers.

2. Determine your total overall itinerary

Start by knowing how many days you have for your total vacation door to door. It takes the better part of a day to fly to Alaska depending on your home city. Then you may spend the good part of another day getting from Anchorage to your wilderness destination. So if you are wanting to do a 7 day trek be sure to add on several extra days to allow for transportation.

3. Research the area

If you decide you want an adventure in a particular part of Alaska determine the logistics of getting there. Becuase of the great distances and low population density in Alaska there is not much public transportation around the state. Car rentals is a popular way to get around. Some areas have shuttle services but probably not on a daily basis. For example there is a van service that operates between Anchorage and McCarthy, but it only runs twice in each direction per week. So you would might to take that into account when selecting a trip. (more…)

Selecting Your Best Alaska Trek

Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009

Most people taking one of our adventures have never done an Alaska trek before. The majority have done a fair amount of backpacking or at least some hiking but are not sure what to expect and how to pick the best trip for them.

If you’ve never done an Alaskan wilderness backpacking trek, then realize that it’s going to be notch or two up from what you’ve done elsewhere. For example, one of the most common questions I get about a trek is – how many miles do we cover each day? I always tell people that it’s not the mileage, it’s the terrain that counts.

seven_pass_2

If you’re hiking on a nice trail in the Siearras then covering 10 miles in a day would be pretty easy. But in the backcountry of Alaska there are no trails, we make our own route over tundra, glaciers, meadows, moraine… and more. That same 10 miles in Alaska that might be at least two days of travel depending on the terrain. So when you look at the trip stats don’t judge a trek by its mileage.

To help put our range of treks into perspective here is a rough comparison of how they line up on the strenuosity scale. How difficult a given trip feels depends a lot on how good your conditioning is, but this will rank them in relative order of effort required. Some trips appear in multiple categories because those trips can be done in more than one way. That’s especially true of base camp and loop trips.

With the exception of the Donoho Glacier trek, all of our treks require bush flights in small planes to access the interior of the park wilderness. So these are all remote adventures.

Easier to Moderate
These are mostly combination base camp/loop trips where we put in and get picked up at the same backcountry airstrip. We have a lot of flexibility with our itinerary on these trips and can accommodate the interests and abilities of the group. These tend to be a combination of backpacking and day hiking. Trips in this range are great for folks with not much experience, families with younger children or those just wanting a more mellow experience. Steamboat Hills is especially good for kids.

Moderate to Strenuous
These trips kick it up a notch an while they are not in the strenuous category, there will be some more challenging sections along the way. For example the Skolai – Wolverine trek has some easier days but there are definitely some more strenuous days as well. A trip like Iceberg Lake or Skolai Pass is very customizable and can be done as anything from fairly easy to more challenging.

Strenuous
You will definitely want to be in good physical condition for these treks and some prior backpacking experience is a plus. These tend to be longer routes with some challenges including a few longer days, glacier crossings and moraine crossings. If you’re in shape and wanting a challenge then these are your best bet.

Most Challenging
This trek is our most demanding and you must have prior backpacking experience and be in very good condition. This route features some steep and rugged terrain as well as some extended bushwhacking and one or two demanding stream crossings. There are a few days that are long and challenging. This trek requires a phone interview.

There is a trek for all abilities, it’s just a matter of picking the best match for you.

Here is a chart of our trips with links to more information.

Easier to Moderate
Moderate to Strenuous
Strenuous
Most Challenging
Steamboat Hills
Skolai Pass
Donoho Glacier Trek
Iceberg Lake
Iceberg Lake
Skolai to Wolverine
Nutzotin Highlands
Seven Pass
Pyramid Peak
Wrangell/Skyscraper

For the most part, if you are in good physical condition then you’ll do fine on most of our trips, at least into the moderate to strenuous range. Our treks are meant to be an adventure with some challenges, not but not extreme. We help you to select just the right amount of challenge.

There are other factors to consider of course. Some routes are better for wildlife spotting and others for dramatic terrain. Some treks have more variety or include special features like glacier crossings. But a good place to start is finding the right difficulty level for you.

For more on any of these trips click on the links to see the detail page, give us a call. 907.350.3710