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Owner Greg Fensterman,
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Wrangell-St. Elias National
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Past McCarthy, Alaska

Pyramid Peak – 2010

Sunday, January 9th, 2011
Heading up Canyon Creek

Heading up Canyon Creek

We did the Pyramid Peak route several times last summer. One of those trips was a group of seven  which is a bigger group than we usually do but it worked out well in this case. It was an international trip with a couple of Irish lads (Ian and Nial) as well as a young lady, Annie, from Switzerland. Serge and Andrea were a couple from Canada which left Judy and Ann as our token Americans in the group.

It was a diverse group which helped to keep things lively and interesting.

The drop-off airstrip on this trek is very small and very remote, so we had to fly in one at a time in a Super Cub. It’s a dramatic flight in and it was funny to watch each person get out of the plane and the first words out of their mouth was a variation on “that was amazing.” So the flight in definitely got five stars.

Because it took so long to get the group re-assembled on Canyon Creek, the first day was a pretty short and easy one. We hiked a few miles upstream along the creek and then made our crossing of Canyon Creek so we wouldn’t have to start our next day with a cold crossing.

Up the Ridge

Up the Ridge

We had a great campsite right near the water. At dinner time a rather cheeky ground squirrel came round to see if he could scrounge some food. He was totally unafraid of us and in fact would just not be scared off. He did manage to score a piece of pasta and gave our fettuccine alfredo a two paws up review.

A Well Deserved Break

A Well Deserved Break

Day two was a bit more strenuous and featured a big slog up the first ridge of the trip. But it was well worth the hump as we arrived on top to be greeted by clear skies and awesome views all around, especially of the University range.

There is a lot of flexibility in how we structure this route and generally we mix up the longer and shorter days. We got to one spot were we have camped before but it was pretty early in the day so I presented an option that I had always wanted to try.

There is a great spot to camp up on the ridge but the downside is that there is no water, so the only we to camp there is to haul water up the hill. Well Serge and the Milne brothers came to the rescue and volunteered to hump water. It was a great spot to camp for sure with nice views.

Summit Handstands!

Summit Handstands!

The hike up the ridge to Andrus is always a highlight though some find it a little more exciting than they would like. It’s a sharp edge ridge-line that is pretty exhilarating. Ian and Nial had to celebrate our arrival at the top with their traditional summit handstand. The view from the shoulder of Andrus is one of the best of the trek and it’s always a treat when the skies are clear.

One of the big features of the last half of the route is the crossing and re-crossing and more re-crossings of Rex Creek. We had a big group so we split into two teams of four each for the stream crossings: team Mankini and team Magic Spoon. And each team had their own inspirational chant to help fortify and encourage us before venturing into the cold water. It really helped make an otherwise tedious number of crossings a lot easier and even fun.

One of the highlights for me was the last morning when the group presented a thank you gift including a made-in-the-field card. Thanks again guys.

So it was a great trek with a great bunch of people.

Can’t wait to see who shows up this summer!

Annie Enjoying the Spectacular Views on the Way Down.

Annie Enjoying the Spectacular Views on the Way Down.

Winter Road Trip to McCarthy

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

road_signI was getting a case of the mid-winter doldrums and decided it was time to get out of town for a bit. So I loaded up the pick-up truck with supplies and lit out for the territories.

I had been watching the weather forecast for the Copper River valley and it looked like it wasn’t going to get too cold. No -40 nonsense at any rate. Still, when you do remote travel to places like McCarthy in the dead of winter you have to prepare with a full set of survival gear and clothing. If you break down halfway up the McCarthy road you better be prepared to spend the night out in forty below temps, no matter what the forecast.

The last bit to McCarthy is 60 miles of unpaved road and while it does get plowed in the winter it’s done on a pretty irregular basis. So I took along a full set of chains for all 4 wheels.

road_glacier_01Mostly what you have to worry about on the road in winter are the glaciers. Not real glaciers, it’s just what we call them. The ground freezes and forces water up to the surface where it flows and freezes. It can create thick sheets of ice across the road up to 100 yards long. But what you really have to watch for are the spots were the ice is soft or there are sections of open water.

As you can see, there was one nasty spot around mile 35. It was touch and go and for a moment I really thought I wouldn’t get out of it. But I floored it and my chains clawed their way up and out the other side. Whew. Didn’t really want to sit and wait for someone to pull me out, or camp out.

Got to McCarthy and to my friend’s cabin just as light was fading fast. The road to her drive had been plowed but not the drive and there was no place to pull off the road. So a bit of furious shoveling was required to clear a pull-out in the foot and a half deep snow. It was pretty much getting dark by the time I pulled up to the front door with my gear sled piled with stuff.

d_cabin_01Put the key in the door… and it wouldn’t turn. I thought maybe it was frozen, but no, it was just the wrong key. Oh great. I was standing there in the wash of my headlamp in the snow with temps around zero and it’s now dark. I was not going to give up easily however and scouted around the cabin for a window that I might be able to open.

Amazingly the kitchen window was not latched and after pulling back the screening I was able to crawl through and onto the kitchen table. It was a pretty inelegant maneuver but at least I was inside.

Within minutes I had the wood stove roaring. The generator out back fired up without too much complaint so then had lights with heat on the way. Things were looking up.

I spent the next 5 days hauling firewood, doing some reading, a bit of snowshoeing and even some work online though with a very slow connection. The place is just magical when it’s covered in white.

icefall_winter_01It was a very relaxing time. There were not very many people around the area and I only  saw a few while I was there. On the last day it was around 15 below and I had to fire up the generator and plug in the engine heater before it would start. So it was a great winter road trip and a good time in McCarthy. I’ll probably get out there for again before spring.

Quick Trip to McCarthy

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

I just got back the other day from a quick trip out to McCarthy to ferry out some supplies for the summer. I some times get inquiries from folks asking about backpacking and hiking trips in April. So for those people, here’s what McCarthy looks like in the ’springtime’.

mccarthyapril6_1aI knew there would be a lot of snow on the ground but was surprised to find about two feet of the stuff. Things are warming up fast though and once the temps start to rise things can change very quickly.

I was mostly dropping off supplies but also visited some friends and while hiking is not so good this time of year, skiing and snow shoeing is. The snow is getting more and more consilidated so it’s not the usual bottomless Alaskan powder.

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