We wrote the book!

Owner Greg Fensterman,
author of Hiking Alaska’s
Wrangell-St. Elias National
Park
- Falcon Guides


Trek Alaska Blog

Welcome to the Trek Alaska Blog. Posts will be fairly random and cover the gamut from trip reports and gear reviews to videos and photos. Feel free to comment on the posts and to click the Facebook share button to share with your friends.

Winter Road Trip to McCarthy

January 24th, 2010

road_signI was getting a case of the mid-winter doldrums and decided it was time to get out of town for a bit. So I loaded up the pick-up truck with supplies and lit out for the territories.

I had been watching the weather forecast for the Copper River valley and it looked like it wasn’t going to get too cold. No -40 nonsense at any rate. Still, when you do remote travel to places like McCarthy in the dead of winter you have to prepare with a full set of survival gear and clothing. If you break down halfway up the McCarthy road you better be prepared to spend the night out in forty below temps, no matter what the forecast.

The last bit to McCarthy is 60 miles of unpaved road and while it does get plowed in the winter it’s done on a pretty irregular basis. So I took along a full set of chains for all 4 wheels.

road_glacier_01Mostly what you have to worry about on the road in winter are the glaciers. Not real glaciers, it’s just what we call them. The ground freezes and forces water up to the surface where it flows and freezes. It can create thick sheets of ice across the road up to 100 yards long. But what you really have to watch for are the spots were the ice is soft or there are sections of open water.

As you can see, there was one nasty spot around mile 35. It was touch and go and for a moment I really thought I wouldn’t get out of it. But I floored it and my chains clawed their way up and out the other side. Whew. Didn’t really want to sit and wait for someone to pull me out, or camp out.

Got to McCarthy and to my friend’s cabin just as light was fading fast. The road to her drive had been plowed but not the drive and there was no place to pull off the road. So a bit of furious shoveling was required to clear a pull-out in the foot and a half deep snow. It was pretty much getting dark by the time I pulled up to the front door with my gear sled piled with stuff.

d_cabin_01Put the key in the door… and it wouldn’t turn. I thought maybe it was frozen, but no, it was just the wrong key. Oh great. I was standing there in the wash of my headlamp in the snow with temps around zero and it’s now dark. I was not going to give up easily however and scouted around the cabin for a window that I might be able to open.

Amazingly the kitchen window was not latched and after pulling back the screening I was able to crawl through and onto the kitchen table. It was a pretty inelegant maneuver but at least I was inside.

Within minutes I had the wood stove roaring. The generator out back fired up without too much complaint so then had lights with heat on the way. Things were looking up.

I spent the next 5 days hauling firewood, doing some reading, a bit of snowshoeing and even some work online though with a very slow connection. The place is just magical when it’s covered in white.

icefall_winter_01It was a very relaxing time. There were not very many people around the area and I only  saw a few while I was there. On the last day it was around 15 below and I had to fire up the generator and plug in the engine heater before it would start. So it was a great winter road trip and a good time in McCarthy. I’ll probably get out there for again before spring.

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Alaskan Winter Day Hike

January 16th, 2010

scott_eklutna_ridgeOkay it was nothing grand but we just had to take the morning off and get up on some mountains. One of the great things about Alaska is that even in the Anchorage (or in my case Eagle River) area, you are never more than minutes away from trailheads and great hiking opportunities.

Backcountry guide Scott and I took off after breakfast to the Peter’s Creek trailhead which is about a 20 minute drive north of Eagle River. One of the things I like about this one is that the trail doesn’t mess around but pretty much just goes up pretty steeply from the get go, so it’s a good workout. We hadn’t had any fresh snow for a while so the trail was pretty well packed down. I was happy to have some traction aids on my boots for part of it.

Once up on the plateau the trail peters out pretty much. The winds up there fill in any boot tracks about as fast as you can make them. No worries though as there is no need for a trail at that point – it’s all wide open tundra up there. It wasn’t too windy when we got there however and the temps were quite mild at around 18 degrees F.

We hiked down the ridge then up and over a high point where we snapped a few pics. Then it was back down into the valley. We tried to do some glissading on the way down but for the most part the snow was just too soft, so we had to hoof it.

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Skolai to Wolverine – 2009 Trip Report

January 12th, 2010

Here’s an excerpt from our last newsletter – a report on a great backpacking trek with a great crew. I had a wonderful time on a trek from Skolai Pass to Wolverine Mountain in late July. It was a great crew headed up by Rob Shurmer who had three of his former students in tow – Harry, James and Andrew.

P1010271We dropped into Skolai Pass for the start of our trek on a sunny day and headed east towards the Russell glacier. We had to do a bit of scouting around to find a good campsite but came up with a nice one overlooking the glacier. A short hike after setting up camp took got us up close and personal with this impressive glacier.

Next day it was hiking up to Chitistone Pass by way of the ‘back door’ past some dramatic hanging glaciers. We had to do a bit of jumping, leaping and rock hopping to avoid some stream crossings but I seem to recall that we were able to keep our boots dry.

The guys in the group were big Lord of the Rings fans and as we hiked through a section of grassy knobs we dubbed it the Barrow Downs. The fog drifting in and out of the hummocks really added to the effect. However we completed the passage without running into any barrow wights.

The Scree Slopes

The Scree Slopes

The highlight of that day was the traverse across the infamous scree slopes. The slopes can be a bit intimidating at times. But we managed to stay on the high route and avoid the more hazardous lower path. Our reward was topping out on the ridge where we were treated to a parting of the fog to reveal some truly stunning views of the Chitistone river far below.

Here’s a short video from the ridge top posted on our Facebook page. As you can hear the wind was whipping around pretty hard.

That day turned out to be a long one as we pushed on farther than usual and found an amazing place to camp at the head of Hasen Creek. We saw lots of Dahl sheep there too. Down the creek, up and over a saddle on another ridge, down the other side, over the morraine… and then to a small pool created by rockslide that blocked a stream’s exit. Some of the guys were ready for a break and stripped down and jumped in to cool off.

Get the Flash Player to see the wordTube Media Player.

One of my favorite camps was at Grotto Creek where we had some really sweet late afternoon light – great for taking some photos of Wolverine Mountain. And the final camp near the airstrip is always a great end to the trip. The views are amazing as you stand at the top of rocky cliffs… right next to the dragon eggs. All in all it was a wonderful Alaskan backpacking adventure with delightful companions.

There was never a dull moment with this group, especially if you were a card player and have a good knowledge of history for trivia games.

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Happy New Year

January 3rd, 2010

Okay I’m a day late with the new years greeting but there is still quite a bit of 2010 left to go. Hope everyone has been having a great holiday season.

My own New Years eve was pretty subdued. I went for a night hike by the light of a very large full moon. Not much need for  a headlamp with the moon shining off the snow. It was nice to get up above the treeline and see the mountaions by the lunar glow.

I’ll be getting out a newsletter in the next week or so.

Since Christmas I have been getting a lot of email. Always seems like once we get past the winter holiday season folks start thinking about summer plans!

I’m working on a few more short videos this weekend and hope to have some up soon.

Have a good weekend and a great 2010!

greg

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Skolai Pass to Wolverine – Shurmer Party

December 29th, 2009
Russell Glacier

Russell Glacier

Sometimes I have to take a break from winter in Alaska and reflect on some of the great backpacking trips we did last summer.

I had a wonderful time on a trek from Skolai Pass to Wolverine Mountain in late July. It was a great crew headed up by Rob Shurmer who had three of his former students in tow -  Harry, James and Andrew.

We dropped into Skolai Pass for the start of our trek on a sunny day and headed east towards the Russell glacier. We had to do a bit of scouting around to find a good campsite but came up with a nice one overlooking the glacier. A short hike after setting up camp took got us up close and personal with this impressive glacier.

Guide Scott gives some map reading assistance

Guide Scott gives some map reading assistance

Next day it was up to Chitistone Pass by way of the back door past some dramatic hanging glaciers. We had to do a bit of jumping, leaping and rock hopping to avoid some stream crossings but I seem to recall that we were able to keep our boots dry.

The guys in the group were big Lord of the Rings fans and as we hiked through a section of grassy knobs I dubbed it the Barrow Downs. The fog drifting in and out of the hummocks really added to the effect. However we completed the passage without running into any barrow wights.

The highlight of that day was the traverse across the infamous scree slopes. But we managed to stay on the high route and avoid the more hazardous lower path. Our reward was topping out on the ridge where we were treated to a parting of the fog to reveal some truly stunning views of the Chitistone river far below. That day turned out to be a long one as we pushed on farther than usual and found an amazing place to camp at the head of Hasen Creek. We saw lots of Dahl sheep  there too.

Down the creek, up and over a saddle on another ridge, down the other side, over the morraine… and then to a small pool created by rockslide that blocked a stream’s exit. Some of the guys were ready for a break and stripped down and jumped in to cool off.

One of my favorite camps was at Grotto Creek where we had some really sweet late afternoon light – great for taking some photos of Wolverine Mountain.

And the final camp near the airstrip is always a great end to the trip. The views are amazing as you stand at the top of rocky cliffs… right next to the dragon eggs.

All in all it was a wonderful adventure with delightful companions. There was never a dull moment with this  group, especially if you were a card player and have a good knowledge of history.

Get the Flash Player to see the wordTube Media Player.
Bookmark and Share